Visiting ancient sacred temple sites on Raiatea and Tahiti and meeting the indigenous Polynesian Mahohi Christians

Marae are sacred, open temple sites of the ancient indigenous Polynesians, the Mahoi, on the islands of Raiatea and Tahiti, both of which belong to French Polynesia. They are mostly rectangular platforms made of coral stones, featuring altars for rituals, sacrifices and gatherings of chiefs (c. 1000–1800 AD). Around the main marae, there are sometimes further smaller marae, buildings or protective walls.

The Taputapuatea Marae near Opoa on the island of Raiatea is the most important Polynesian sanctuary (a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2017); built around 1000 AD and in use for centuries, it was the political and religious centre of the Eastern Polynesians.

The Arahurahu Marae in Paea on the island of Tahiti is the largest and best-restored of its kind. It was rebuilt in 1953 on the site of an original complex dating from the 17th–18th centuries. It served as a cultural centre for ceremonies.

The Tehurui Marae near Tumaraa on the island of Raiatea is a very large, elongated but less well-documented marae near the lagoon, dating from the period before the arrival of Europeans (c. 1200–1700 AD), and is typical of many smaller, local places of worship with a coral structure set amidst a tropical environment. It is situated in the back garden of a church near the coast and has thus survived the ravages of time.

Papenoo Marae, located in the upper Papenoo Valley on the island of Tahiti, forms part of a vast archaeological complex comprising numerous scattered basalt platforms dating from the pre-European period (c. 1200–1700 AD). It lies secluded in the densely forested highlands along the river and was an important religious centre for the valley’s Maori population.

On Tahiti, the Route de Traverse (RT 20) stretches right across the interior, linking the north and south coasts through tropical rainforest. The route across the interior of Tahiti can only be tackled in a 4×4 with experienced guides.

Along this route lie several ancient Polynesian marae, sacred platforms of the Maori culture from pre-colonial times; the Marae Arahurahu at kilometre 19 (‘KM 19’) of Route 20 on the coast, and the Marae Ta’ata at KM 19 in Paea on the mountain side – this royal complex combines three platforms for different chiefs. Evidence of human sacrifices at this site has been found, and the very old humpback stones are characteristic; the Marae Mahaiatea, situated at KP 39, is regarded as a central, significant cultural site on Tahiti, featuring a multi-tiered platform dating from the 17th century. The Marae Toomaru Vaiotea, situated at KP 9 in the Papenoo river valley near Papenoo in the tropical rainforest, is a 12th-century complex comprising around 15 platforms made of basalt and coral stones, accessible from the banks of the Vaituoru River.

The indigenous Polynesian Mahohi make up 78% of French Polynesia’s 190,000 inhabitants; on Tahiti, with a population of 190,000, the proportion is slightly higher at 83%, whilst on Raiatea, with 13,000 inhabitants, it is in line with the national average. The proportion of Maohi is falling very slowly due to immigration from Europe and Asia. 11% of the inhabitants of French Polynesia are Europeans, 4% Asians and 2% of mixed descent. On Tahiti, the indigenous Maohi are now almost exclusively Christian, with a clear predominance of Protestants. However, detailed breakdowns specifically for the Maohi on Tahiti are lacking. The Protestant Church of the Maohi (Tahitian: Ètārētia Porotetani Māòhi) dates back to the London Mission in the 19th century and became independent in 1962. Services are held in the Tahitian language (Reo Mā’ohi or Reo Tahiti); in the capital, Papeete, and in urban centres, the service is sometimes translated into French.

French Polynesia consists of 70 inhabited islands; two-thirds of the population live on Tahiti, whilst four other islands have more than 10,000 inhabitants (in descending order): Moorea, Bora Bora and Raiatea, all of which belong to the Society Islands archipelago, which has a total population of 235,000 across 14 islands.